Our stories regarding food, travel and life in Sicily...
Posted on Tuesday 04th of October 2005 under
Here we are from one cookery course to the other with some pictures and a short report on our first autumn 2005 cookery course.
First of all, our thoughts go to Anne and Luis who had to cancel to remain in the US and help relatives affected by Katrina. We hope they will be able to join us soon for another course.
The first day of the course was dedicated to a visit of Ortigia, the old town of Siracusa, where we went to have a look at the market. The colors, the smells and the crowd of locals buying fresh fish and vegetables make it a wonderful introduction to the rest of the week.
The second day, we started working in the kitchen on the menu rustico. We prepared scacci with various fillings (aubergines, onions, potatos, ricotta and salsiccia, etc) and the classic cassatina di pasqua - pastry filled with ricotta with sugar and lemon zest. The highlights of the day where the "pastizzu di pesce" with fresh tuna and vegetables and a "scaccia a rota" with anchovies and cheese and pine nuts.
In the afternoon we were entertained by a very local event in a nearby village Testa dell'Acqua, their famous donkey Race, which is fanstastic because it is amything but a race. More a collection of humans and donkeys trying to explain to each other the terms of interaction and failing gloriously to achieve it.
The morning after, we focused on fish based recipes. We prepared the Tortino di Alici, a Cipollata di Tonno and a Dentex with pomegranate that we cooked in the oven with a crust of rock salt. We also enjoyed Chef Salvatore Guarino's new interpretation of the traditional Sarda al Beccafico and "Tonno alla mia maniera" with a ricotta stuffed mozzarella.
In the afternoon we had an olive oil tasting and a wine tasting session in the estate of Felice Modica, local prize winner olive oil producer and wine producer.
On the Tuesday, our highlight of our lunch at Il Duomo is not probably what some of our guests would have chosen, but we just loved it. Ciccio Sultano surprised us with a wonderful spoon of row meet served with egg yoke and a glass of Marsala wine. This was his reinterpretation of what his grandmother used to give him when he was a child to get some strength back after a flue. We certainly get enough strength to keep cooking for the rest of the week.
In fact the day after we were back in the kitchen for a meat based menu. We had fun preparing the traditional arancini (spot the odd one out in the picture below!) and enjoyed especially the preparation of a beef fillet marinated with sugar and salt and then served on a cauliflower sauce.
The afternoon was dedicated to Modica and its chocolate; we visited Antica Dolceria Bonajuto for a chocolate demonstration and tasted also some of their excellent almond based biscuits. The last day in the kitchen we prepared two autumn versions of the Tortino di riso grigliato and the Raviolo aperto, two successful dishes during the spring courses.
In all a very enjoyable course both for the cooking and the great people we had with us. We even had a brief visit from a fellow blogger - Alberto of Il Forno (which you can just about make out in one of the photos above) with his wonderful wife decided to explore our corner of Sicily and spend a couple of days with us during the course!
Finally we leave you with a picture of the sunset at Felice Modica's winery.
Posted on Friday 16th of September 2005 under
We've just finished a week-long cookery course, this is the first day that we did not spend 5 hours in the morning in the kitchen and we are cooking a custard sweet to enter into Sugar High Fridayâ€¦
I guess along the graph of food obsession we are way beyond the median.
The discussion went something along these linesâ€¦
- Today itâ€™s Sugar High Friday. I think they are doing custard.
- Custard? Thatâ€™s nice.
- What custard do you think we would do if we were not this tired from the course?
Posted on Friday 09th of September 2005 under
One of the beautiful things of an area that has a rich agricultural tradition is that seasons suddenly gain their importance once more â€“ it is not just a hotter/colder/more rainy period of the year but a time where specific tasks are repeated and can only be repeated at this time because nature is just that way.
Case in point for autunm are carobs and almonds, olives and grapes. Autumn is the time where families would reunite and move from one field to the other to pick the produce â€“ a task that requires many hands. Friends would team up with other friends and exchange labour so both fields are completed in time.
In our modern 21st century the same old structures are not there but thankfully the produce still gets collected. The majority of young Sicilians are not really that interested in getting their hands dirty in the fields. Instead, the countryside now depends on the crucial lifeline of seasonal workers, which in the case of Sicily often come from Tunisia and Morocco. Without the help of these workers the land owners would really find themselves in great difficulty since despite the more advanced machinery available for collecting produce human labour for certain types of produce and for a certain level of quality and care in not damaging the produce is crucial.
The following are some pictures we took during a trip in the area between Noto and the seaside. You can see both spontaneous growth (like the wild pomegranade tree and the prickly pears) as well as the olives, grapes, almonds and carubs - both collected and still waiting to be collected.
Carubs and almonds in the courtyard of an old Masseria
Some of the millions of prickly pears that grow so easily in Sicily
A varied landsacpe with vines, olives, carubs all mixed together
A wild pomegranade tree by the side of a little church in the countryside
Ripe grapes - ready to be picked up
Posted on Monday 05th of September 2005 under
This weekend we tried to recreate a typical New Orleans recipe following a suggestion made at the Tomatilla blog. The Tomatilla blog is the official home of the Paper Chef competition which this month was dedicate to New Orleans calling for recipes that included characteristic Louisiana ingredients such as sausages and shrimps. Paper Chef also asked for recipes with beer and tomatoes â€“ but I got so excited trying to make a Gumbo recipe that I completely forgot to include those ingredients so I guess our blog is excluded from the Paper Chef competition but the recipe is anyway inspired by it.
Ok, enough preamble. On to the cooking. Weâ€™ve always wanted to try this recipes ever since we read it in yet another Owen-influenced creation â€“ the first book dedicated to food blogging recipes. We received this book a few weeks ago and one of the recipes that immediately impressed me was the Gumbo recipe. What a monster!
A broth of chicken and shrimps, something quite devilish called roux and a final dish with chicken, shrimps and sausages alongside a huge amount of other ingredients. If curious you can still find the recipe online.
We could probably spend several hundred words explaining why what we did was anything but Gumbo. First off the sausages were not New Orleans sausages but Sicilian ones â€“ with quite a characteristic fennel taste. We did not spend 4-5 hours on the broth â€“ in fact we dedicated just 90 minutes. We first browned all the ingredients that go into the broth until really golden brown â€“ then dumped a lot of ice to arrest the cooking and brought that back to the boil for another hour.
The thing that got us though was the roux. The roux, according to the recipe we followed, consists of a cup of oil and a cup and some of flour over a medium-high heat until golden or dark according to whether one prefers the Cajun or Creole style â€“ now we hadnâ€™t tried either so we went for just the golden one. We then added all the vegetables to soften/cook in the roux and then added the vegetables + roux to the broth along with browned chicken and sausages. Brought it to a boil and let it simmer adding the cleaned shrimps (whose heads and skin went to make the broth) in the last five minutes.
The results were really quite good - we probably overdid the proportions with the roux and got quite a thick sauce in the end but one learns as one goes. Proper spices would also help although our chillies added a nice kick.
Perhaps the most important impression, however, is that any group of people that are able to place claim on such a recipe will need something much, much stronger than a mere force 5 hurricane to stop them. All we can say is that we are looking forward to tasting the real thing in the centre of New Orleans sometime soon.
Posted on Thursday 01st of September 2005 under
We really havenâ€™t been cooking very much on this blog lately (although we have been talking about food â€“ both here and elsewhere). Part of the reason is the current state of our kitchen (below-left) and the rest of the house (below-right). We should also point out to some of the older readers of this diary that this is not the state of the house at Via Ritiro N.7 - this is the state of the house that we will be staying in while restoring Via Ritiro N.7!
One thing that has been going well however is our terrace garden.
The various plants seem completely oblivious to the chaos surrounding them and are happy to keep growing in various spurs and flurs of activity. The lettuces have gone from fragile little sprigs to full blown (well not completely full blown but we ate them anyway) lettuces. The only problem is that the images of the full blow ones have been corrupted so we just have a strip to show you.
The aubergines have grown from flowers to baby aubergines.
So in general things are moving along - hopefully we will eventually fill the empty space with a kitchen but in the meantime we are hoping to make up for the need to cook during next week's loveSicily cookery course. This time we are looking forward to some time in a kitchen even more than usualâ€¦
Posted on Sunday 14th of August 2005 under
Fifty-two coffee infused creations - spanning from the improbable sounding capuccino cheese jelly mooncakes to a rather worrying sounding but ultimately wonderfully elegant pate trompe, by a hardcore coffee and chocolate jolt to the most reassuring milk and cookies.
Coffe was put in pots, drizzles on top, most inspiring-ly placed in ice for decoration, and generally cooked in every way conceivable to satisfy the coffee-themed requirements of this month's Sugar High Friday.
The problem is that this incredible range of coffee-themed sweets are quite hard to classify. There are cakes and magic cakes, pies, drinks, granitas, truffles, biscotti - with ( option 1, option 2) and without chunks - , tofu, cupcakes, latte, a most impressive gellee, a most correct wholemeal cake, with sabayon or simply more than one alternative.
People confessed their love, others their mild dislike, others their sacrifice of coffee for a greater love while for others still it is simply not an ingredient that agrees with them but they ventured ahead anyway which is great.
The full list of participants follows (with some showing extreme patience with me but eventually made it) - and I am truly impressed by the variety. Well done to everyone - you are sure to find something to try out in your own kitchen here. I for one am freezing coffee beans in ice for tomorrow morning's frappe.
A Blithe Palate - Espresso Pot de CrÃ¨me with Honey Sabayon
1x umrÃ¼hren bitte - Iced White Mocha & Ba-Ci-Co-FrappÃ©
Lick the Spoon - Jolt ake
The Occasional Epicure - Espesso Cakes
Kitchen Parade - Coffee Pots
Chubby Hubby - Vanilla coffee madeleines and warm mocha tarts
A Tenderfoot's Foodventures - P.B.
& Jeyc's Coffee
Lo spazio di staximo - Delizie al CaffÃ©
masak-masak - Capuccino Cheese Jelly Mooncake
Once Upon a Feast - Irish Coffee Pie
Spitoon - Chocolate Pots with Vanilla Ice Cream Affogato.
Dispensing Happiness - PÃ¢tÃ© TrompÃ©
Babe in the City - Coffe Ice
Anne's Food - Vanilla Cinammon Latte
lovescool - Chocolate and Vietnamese Coffee Tart
confabulist.com - Milk and cookies
Food Beam - Chocolate espresso cake with caffe latte cream
A Perfect Pear - Salted Caramel Filled Cardamom and Espresso Brownie Cake with Crispy Phyllo Cap and Coffee Gellee
The green jackfruit - Kahlua Chocolate Chunk Cookies
Stephen cooks - Mocha Mint Granita
she bakes and she cooks - Mocha Bars
baking sheet - Black Chocolate Espresso Cake with Bittersweet Glaze
dilek'ce - Coffee balls cake
KUIDAORE - Espresso Orange Panna Cotta Parfait with Coffee Gelee & White Chocolate & Coffee Towers with Mocha Creme Anglaise
Without Garnish- Cafe Latte Pannacotta Pyramid, Graham Crackers with Milk Chocolate Fudge Sauce, Clear Caramel Sauce, and Citrus Tuile
A Cat in the kitchen - Coffee Espresso Cake
chubby cat cooks - Petit Pots Caffe
KÃ¼chenlatein - Espresso with coffeetarts and mascarpone
Mrs. Happy Housewife - Espresso Biscuits a la Martha
I like to do stuff.... - Vietnamese Coffee Popsicle
Food & Thoughts - Mocha Chip Pound Cake
Domestic Goddess - Coffee infused pound cake
Brownie Points - Chocolate Silk Tofu Cream
18thC Cuisine - Pots de CrÃ¨me au Chocolat
stefoodie - an over-the-top triple treat
Taste Everything Once - Espresso-Orange Biscotti
Esurientes - Wholemeal Chocolate, Hazelnut & Coffee cake
Belly-Timber - Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle
La Dolce Vita - Chocolate eclairs
Do you know the muffin man? - Espresso semifreddo with almond florentine
English Patis - Happy Anniversary Mocha Cupcakes
Seriously Good - Pots de Creme
Culinary Adventures - Black Magic Cake
Grab Your Fork - Coffee hazelnut cookies with dark chocolate chunks
Dessert comes first - Coffee Macadamia Pie
Nordjlus - Cafe Caramel Noix
Walker Eats - Brownies
THe Skinny Epicurean - Double Layer Chocolate Cake
Posted on Saturday 13th of August 2005 under
It was a bit difficult to nod off last night â€“ it was suggested that I may have had too much coffee during the dayâ€¦ well after all it was Sugar High Friday and I was faithfully exploring coffee sweets. Indeed I was so dedicated I am only blogging about it a day later.
So here is a guide to coffee in South-East Sicily as lived from breakfast to until 2am, spanning the 12th and 13th of August, 2005.
Curiously the first taste of coffee is not inspired by South-East Sicily but by Cyprus and Greece. Itâ€™s a classic frappe that can be had in a million different ways in the cafes of both countries. You can have it strong, medium, sweet, a bit sweet, a bit bitter, miso-miso (half milk, half water), olo gala (all milk), frothy, thickly frothy. The more complicated and detailed your order to the bewildered waiter the more your social standing grows.
For something so complicated to order its very easy to make. Just instant coffee and sugar with a bit of water. Mix to create the froth. The quantity of water and time of mixing will lead to a more or less consistent frothiness â€“ ranging from very frothy to almost cream-like. Then add water or milk, ice (essential), sit back, open the backgammon, and forget your worries.
After you have relaxed sufficiently move on to the beach for a bit of exercise. However, in case youâ€™ve relaxed too much a caffe freddo will bring you up to speed. This is simply a shot of espresso (kept in the fridge) with some liquid sugar cane. Most houses keep a little bottle in the fridge of caffe freddo which they keep topping up with whatever is left from the normal coffee produced each day. Another alternative is of course the coffee granita.
After lunch a normal espresso is the general rule of thumb, followed (and this had always impressed me) by a siesta. You would think that a strong coffee would prevent that from happening but the sun and the absolute piece that takes over a town after 2pm prevents that from happening.
Before long (i.e. after 2-3 hours) one is up and may be feeling a bit peckish. A pezzo duro will soon make sure you are both refreshed from the heat and more sugar. A pezzo duro is hard ice cream and in this case we had a terrine-style cake, with coffee, hazelnut, vanilla, and chocolate.
By this time the sun is setting and things are beginning to relax once more as people get ready for the night time.
Around 12am last night we took this picture sitting behind the Torre Cabrera in Pozzallo before going on to get an ice cream with coffee and hazelnut. Of course it was so hot that the ice cream practically melted by the time we took the picture!
So there you have it â€“ a day of coffee. No need to mention that I am having none today. By the way, all through the day the mail was faithfully clocking in the entries from all over of which I will have a summary up tomorrow morning - after a morning frappe that is.
Posted on Thursday 11th of August 2005 under
We never thougth growing things could be so exciting. Of course in the UK we had the odd basil pot which seems to persevere no matter how much it was neglected, but here we are talking lemons and oranges, lettuces, peppers and chillies and beans and mints â€“ and itâ€™s only been a month or so.
It may very well wear off â€“ perhaps after a couple of months we will simply be complaining that things arenâ€™t growing quickly enough or that they need too much care, but right now itâ€™s the honeymoon period.
We will be introducing each of the members in turns but the aubergines stole everyone elseâ€™s thunder this morning by coming up with this wonderful flowers which will soon turn into nice round violet aubergines.
I wish we could be sharing some wise knowledge of how to take care of aubergines. The truth is that we simply bought some stalks, which the lady at the Consorzio Agrario in Modica claimed where aubergines (they just look like green pieces of stick to me). They had tiny-tiny leaves on them and we stuck them in a pot.
Two days later the leaves doubled in size and now, three weeks on, they are a good 50cm high and are actually wonderful plants on their own right. All it took was water and sunâ€¦ it almost doesnâ€™t seem fair.
However, putting my concerned citizen hat on for a minute, it is also true that the real difficulties arise when people try to intensively cultivate just one kind of plant in earth that has been exhausted because of intensive cultivation and that then needs pesticides because the natural habitat in which one thing eats the other is simply elimintated.
On our part we are looking forward to enjoy the aubergines â€“ hopefully some time in October.
Posted on Monday 08th of August 2005 under
Each summer we tend to go through the â€œfavourite refreshing item of the seasonâ€ trend. Last year it was watermelon ice-cream, which I could not do without for more than 24-36 hours, but this year undeniably it must be ice tea with lemon granita.
Katia, being a true native, knew about this wonderful combination for years. However, she somehow failed to mention it for all these years that we've been coming to Sicily together. I guess the main reason is that before we became full-time Sicilians time was generally limited so we focused on just granitas or ice-creams and paid little attention to something as plain as tea of which the UK is overflowing. Well now that we have more time to look around I noticed people having this mixture at bars and decided to join in.
Result: the combination of the lemon granita with really cold tea is irresistible and I am now probably drinking more tea than I ever did in the UK!
The best thing about it is that while last yearâ€™s passion (the watermelon ice cream) could only be had at a couple of the proper gelaterie this can be found in just about any bar and it can be made at home.
The recipe is in the title as you can imagine â€“ for the lemon granite simple toss together some lemon ice cubes, some water ice cubes and sugar in a very strong mixer and mix until you get a grainy but almost creamy texture. It will keep in a freezer but it wonâ€™t be the same after that although still good.
As for the Moroccan mintâ€¦ there is a whole category on herbs building up as we are finally growing herbs at home.
Posted on Wednesday 03rd of August 2005 under
It had being going on for about three days. A non-stop high-pitched meowing from what was clearly a very little cat with very big lungs. The first day it was quite hard to figure out where the sound came from. The second day we got it â€“ it was the neighbours house. Only problem was that the neighbours were not in. As the majority of people in town the neighbours had moved closer to the seaside (even if that just means 15 minutes down the road).
So we passed a second night trying to ignore the sound that was becoming increasingly more desperate. Then late in the evening of the third day we spotted him â€“ the neighbour that is. He came to check on the house and was about to leave. It took a bit of insisting to get him to check for the cat. He went in and three minutes later he came back with a little bundle of skin and boneâ€™s which he deposited in Katiaâ€™s hands.
This brings us on to problem number 2. Our house is commandeered by a very demanding 10 year-old dog named Lilly who was certainly not going to accept any little bundle of skin and bones no matter how cute.
Anyway, with Lilly behind a locked door and getting increasingly more frustrated we tried to feed the poor thing â€“ still at a suckling stage - while trying to figure out what to do. We could just keep it in one room until it gets stronger. Problem is it couldnâ€™t stand being left on its own. As soon as we moved more than a couple of meters away the complaining started again. And we really needed to sleep.
At that point we noticed that the solution had been staring at us for us time. A cat in the street had been looking up the balcony. The way this cat was listening and trying to see indicated that it might be its mum? We took the little cat downstairs and tried to approach her but she run away. So we left the little one there and stepped back. Thirty seconds later she came, picked him up and whisked him away.
Today we took these picturesâ€¦
So the little guy not only found his mother but three bothers & sisters as well :-)