loveSicily Blog

Solanum Melongena - Aubergines

Ice tea with lemon granitaWe never thougth growing things could be so exciting. Of course in the UK we had the odd basil pot which seems to persevere no matter how much it was neglected, but here we are talking lemons and oranges, lettuces, peppers and chillies and beans and mints – and it’s only been a month or so.

It may very well wear off – perhaps after a couple of months we will simply be complaining that things aren’t growing quickly enough or that they need too much care, but right now it’s the honeymoon period.

We will be introducing each of the members in turns but the aubergines stole everyone else’s thunder this morning by coming up with this wonderful flowers which will soon turn into nice round violet aubergines.


I wish we could be sharing some wise knowledge of how to take care of aubergines. The truth is that we simply bought some stalks, which the lady at the Consorzio Agrario in Modica claimed where aubergines (they just look like green pieces of stick to me). They had tiny-tiny leaves on them and we stuck them in a pot.

Two days later the leaves doubled in size and now, three weeks on, they are a good 50cm high and are actually wonderful plants on their own right. All it took was water and sun… it almost doesn’t seem fair.

However, putting my concerned citizen hat on for a minute, it is also true that the real difficulties arise when people try to intensively cultivate just one kind of plant in earth that has been exhausted because of intensive cultivation and that then needs pesticides because the natural habitat in which one thing eats the other is simply elimintated.

On our part we are looking forward to enjoy the aubergines – hopefully some time in October.


Ice tea with lemon granita

Ice tea with lemon granitaEach summer we tend to go through the “favourite refreshing item of the season” trend. Last year it was watermelon ice-cream, which I could not do without for more than 24-36 hours, but this year undeniably it must be ice tea with lemon granita.

Katia, being a true native, knew about this wonderful combination for years. However, she somehow failed to mention it for all these years that we've been coming to Sicily together. I guess the main reason is that before we became full-time Sicilians time was generally limited so we focused on just granitas or ice-creams and paid little attention to something as plain as tea of which the UK is overflowing. Well now that we have more time to look around I noticed people having this mixture at bars and decided to join in.

Result: the combination of the lemon granita with really cold tea is irresistible and I am now probably drinking more tea than I ever did in the UK!

The best thing about it is that while last year’s passion (the watermelon ice cream) could only be had at a couple of the proper gelaterie this can be found in just about any bar and it can be made at home.

The recipe is in the title as you can imagine – for the lemon granite simple toss together some lemon ice cubes, some water ice cubes and sugar in a very strong mixer and mix until you get a grainy but almost creamy texture. It will keep in a freezer but it won’t be the same after that although still good.

As for the Moroccan mint… there is a whole category on herbs building up as we are finally growing herbs at home.

The tale of the insistent cat

Cat LostIt had being going on for about three days. A non-stop high-pitched meowing from what was clearly a very little cat with very big lungs. The first day it was quite hard to figure out where the sound came from. The second day we got it – it was the neighbours house. Only problem was that the neighbours were not in. As the majority of people in town the neighbours had moved closer to the seaside (even if that just means 15 minutes down the road).

So we passed a second night trying to ignore the sound that was becoming increasingly more desperate. Then late in the evening of the third day we spotted him – the neighbour that is. He came to check on the house and was about to leave. It took a bit of insisting to get him to check for the cat. He went in and three minutes later he came back with a little bundle of skin and bone’s which he deposited in Katia’s hands.

Cat LostThis brings us on to problem number 2. Our house is commandeered by a very demanding 10 year-old dog named Lilly who was certainly not going to accept any little bundle of skin and bones no matter how cute.

Anyway, with Lilly behind a locked door and getting increasingly more frustrated we tried to feed the poor thing – still at a suckling stage - while trying to figure out what to do. We could just keep it in one room until it gets stronger. Problem is it couldn’t stand being left on its own. As soon as we moved more than a couple of meters away the complaining started again. And we really needed to sleep.

At that point we noticed that the solution had been staring at us for us time. A cat in the street had been looking up the balcony. The way this cat was listening and trying to see indicated that it might be its mum? We took the little cat downstairs and tried to approach her but she run away. So we left the little one there and stepped back. Thirty seconds later she came, picked him up and whisked him away.

Today we took these pictures…

So the little guy not only found his mother but three bothers & sisters as well :-)

Announcing Sugar High Friday #11 - Coffee

Sugar High FridayloveSicily is back in the role of a host for an online blogging event and this time it’s Sugar High Fridays, an event originating by none less than a Domestic Goddess!

The premises are simple – bloggers post recipes, stories, etc based on a common theme on a Friday each month. For August the theme is sweets with coffee as one of the ingredients .

Coffee, we think, makes an excellent theme for a Sugar High Friday. After all the combination of coffee’s rich bitterness and sugar is a marriage that has sustained million of people all over the world. The date for posting is on or before the 12th of August and the address to send in your recipes is To make things easy for us please add SHF in the mail's title.

Just one request– please, please no pull- me- up recipes (or as they are known in their local form: no tira~mi~su recipes). Its not that we don’t like the sweet, and it is certainly not because we subscribe to some notion that tiramisu is sooo “last century”. The reason is that it’s the recipe par excellence that pops in one's mind when one things of a sweet with coffee and we would like to see something different for the competition.

Looking forward to all those coffee-inspired sweets!

Mm! how sweet the coffee tastes,
more delicious than a thousand kisses,
mellower than muscatel wine.
Coffee, coffee I must have,
and if someone wishes to give me a treat,
ah, then pour me out some coffee!

JS Bach’s Coffee Cantata

The proof is in the scacci

We have recently finished to run a tailor-made cooking course. The hot weather does make working in the kitchen harder but we consumed a great deal of granite, ice-cream and watermelon, just to keep our body temperature down, and the pool was a safe haven during the hottest hours of the day.

The loveSicily "students" worked very hard and we are all very happy about the way the course went. There is only one thing that makes us even happier in this case, which is knowing that people keep cooking the recipes they learnt during the course when they go home and experiment with Sicilian food.

We often recieve emails from people who have taken the course telling us they have just prepared the Ravioli col Sugo, Arancine, Granita, etc. for their friends, this time one of the "students" of May 2005 course surprised us sending also a picture of his creation.

He had shown his talent and his ability to reinterpret both traditionl recipes and more modern dishes prepared by Chef Guarino during classes and he has just sent us further proof of his dedication to cooking and love for food with a picture of his Scacci prepared for a party for his friends. Scacci are essentially a thin dough rolled up and stuffed with a variety of fillings.

They are from top to bottom: sweet Italian sausage, marinara, parmesean, and mushroom; eggplant, onion, garlic,
ricotta, and fresh basil; marinated artichoke, olive, ricotta, oregano. He served them with grilled asparagus, salad, and berry trifle for dessert.

Well done to him, we are sure the guests enjoyed it and well done for the picture as well. It manages to capture a very rustic feeling.


Zuppa di Cozze

Chillies add spice to the zuppa di cozzeTo be perfectly honest, we were going for a spaghetti with mussels, but Alessandro - the neighbourhood fishmonger - seemed to have a different measure of what are sufficient mussels for four portions of spaghetti. We could have asked him to remove some from the bag but the suggestion of a zuppa di cozze instead of spaghetti quickly convinced us otherwise. Clearly Alessandro has far better sales techniques than Anglo-Saxon supermarkets have trained us for.

There are endless variations of mussel soups across Italy, with perhaps one of the more popular ones being the impepata di cozze, which is essentially mussels with pepper, olive oil and garlic. In south-east Sicily however, a zuppa di cozze is far more often one with a tasty and slightly spicy tomato sauce.

The first step is of course to clean the mussels (getting rid of those that are open already), then simply place them in a pan with a lid and perhaps very very little water. The mussels quickly release their juice and in about 9-10 minutes should be open, which means they are ready.

Mussels opened Tomato sauce being prepared

At this point remove the liquid, pass it through a fine sieve to remove any impurities and place it apart. Also go through the mussels to remove any that have not opened. Now, we can start with the tomato sauce. For the sauce its pretty much what you prefer. We simply started with olive oil and some garlic, added a sauce we had prepared earlier (although canned tomatoes would work just fine) with a bit of basil. After the sauce was slightly bubbling we added half of the mussel juice and allowed it to reduce almost to half. Then we added the rest of the mussel sauce and two chilies and allowed to reduce some more.

Then add the mussels, some chopped parsley on top and you are ready. Healthy portions of bread to dip are a must. As a secondo some grilled calamari.

Mussel soup ready Calamari Ready

Ibla Grand Prize

Ibla Grand PrizeThe 2005 international music competition Ibla Grand Prize is currenlty taking place in Ragusa Ibla. The event began on the 28th of June and will end on the 10th of July.

The competition is organised by the IBLA Foundation New York City in collaboration with the local authorities and has been held every year since 1992 becoming a fixture of the "estate Iblea". Pianists, singers, instrumentalists and composers of all ages and nationalities come to compete in Ragusa Ibla during the last week of June and the first week of July before an international jury.

For this 2005 edition, about 200 participants have joined the competition and the jury is presided by maestro Marcello Abbado, a famous concert pianist and composer also known to be the former Director of the Milan Conservatory and founder of the Symphonic Orchestra Verdi in Milan.

Every night Ibla will be transformed into an open theatre for the public with concerts taking place in the nicest venues and corners of this magnificent jewel of Baroque architecture.

On the 10th of July, the final evening of the event, the winners will receive their prizes, but this would just be the beginning of a an exciting year for them as they will then be presented in such venues as Lincoln Center Alice Tully Hall and Carnegie Hall in New York, the Tokyo Opera City Hall, the Tchaikovsky Bolshoi Hall in Moscow as well as other prestigious venues in Canada, Europe, Russia and the USA.

So for those many who cannot make it to Ibla this year, there will be many opportunities to listen to the winning musicians around the world! In the meantime, time to plan your visit for the 2006 Ibla Grand Prize.

Sagra ra Tunnina

Sagra ra TunninaA 'sagra' in Italy is best translated as a festival and there are as many variations of how a sagra can be carried out as there are sagre in Italy - in other words, thousands.

The one we went to last night was what would pass as a low key event, i.e. just a couple of thousand people where attending at any moment. The Sagra ra Tunnina - which is its title in Sicilian dialect - is tied to the celebrations of the Madonna delle Grazie which involves a procession around the town of Ispica with a gathering afterwards to enjoy the tuna.

Now, tuna and the Madonna may not be the most immediate of links. But, as ever with such events, the links actually go back at least a few centuries. In the 18th century the most important family of the town of Ispica - Bruno di Belmonte - became the owners of the "tonnara" of Capo Passero. Now, as the family was a God-fearing one (and had excellent PR people) they decided to pay thanks to the Madonna by offering the population of Ispica a huge tuna to be eaten during the celebrations of the Madonna delle Grazie. The tuna was carried from Capo Passero in a big cart and was taken all around the town to ensure that everyone saw exactly how generous the family was.

The Procession The Cooks

Fast-forward to 2005. The family of Belmonte has lost its power over the people of Ispica but the people of Ispica have not lost their appetite for tuna. So they get together some sponsors and the town's administration takes care of the arrangements. Just one tuna is not enough these days, so a few are required. It makes for excellent fast food for a summer night, and comes in two variations. Either a "cipolatta" of tuna, which is tuna with lots of finely chopped onions, or simply roasted in a garlic and oregano sauce.

Cipolatta Roasted Tuna

Now, we know that they don't look perfect and the plates are just plastic ones (as were the fork and knives). But that is the whole spirit of a sagra and a fresh piece of tuna for 3.5 euro is not all that bad!

Food note

Most chefs will insist that a tuna steak should ideally be pink in the middle and that a tuna dish should simply enhance the taste of the fish itself rather than crowd it. While we do appreciate this we should also point out that dishes like the ones of the sagra above are still fantastic and chefs should start paying more attention. A well roasted tuna has quite a different taste, especially when you allow the edges to go slightly crispy. So next time you get a tuna steak in front of you ignore that recipe book. Try roasting it over a high temperature and try it the old-fashioned way. What is important is to cut it thin (not more that two-three centimetres) .

Buona Mozzarella!

The Via Ritiro N.7 diary is about to complete its first year of life and in this time we have posted precisely 107 stories – so about a story every 3 and a half days. Not bad considering that the past month we haven’t posted a single thing – however we do have an excellent excuse: we’ve have been busy packing everything and moving to Sicily from the UK for good – and changing countries is not the simplest of tasks.

Anyway, back to the central issue. Via Ritiro N.7 is a year old! To celebrate we’ve given the diary a bit of a facelift, but more importantly with us being permanently here the diary will enter a whole new dimension of its life since stories will be all the easier to follow, photograph and report.

And its precisely in this spirit that we would like to share a discovery that we made just last night, quite by chance in a “fiera” (a kind of market/exhibition) in Vittoria. The fiera was disappointing to say the least. However, just as we were about to abandon the idea of a bargain we came across the stall of someone selling mozzarella and provolette. Now, discovering mozzarella in Sicily is not exactly a huge surprise. Mozzarella is produced locally. What is surprising was that the stall in question had a huge photo of buffaloes in the back – and buffalo mozzarella produced in Sicily is indeed a surprise.

Azienda Agricola MagazzeA short discussion with the owner revealed that the Azienda Agricola Magazze was only three months old and had 140 buffaloes producing 40Kg of mozzarella a day, while the demand for the product was closer to 120Kg. The initial advice the owner got was that this was simply a crazy idea – who had ever heard of buffalo mozzarella in Sicily! However, this is a guy who has spent time in Africa and studied tropical environments at university so he was confident that he could make it work.

And indeed it worked fantastically – the mozzarella was absolutely amazing, because beyond the relative novelty of the buffaloes being in Sicily all the other aspects of creating mozzarella were well taken care of. For dinner add some salami from the black pigs of the Nebrodi and a spicy dry sausage, tomatoes with olive oil and oregano and that pretty much takes care of things!

Mozzarella and provoletta Sausage and salami 

We should add that we are hoping to visit Magazze in the near future to personally thank the bufalloes for the great work they are doing ;-)

Summer Bounty

Smaller farmers in Ragusa are becoming increasingly more aware of the benefits of selling directly to consumers (rather than negotiating complex contracts with middle men). While "mass production" farms have little choice but to sell for export the smaller farmers that have made peace with their land and with themselves can enjoy a direct relationships and over a suprisingly short period of time they build a faithful following of clients.

It is from "the back of the van" of one of these smaller producers that we received the bounty depicted in the picture below.

Summer Bounty

Cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes from Pachino for a total of 7 euro. Salads with cucumbers and tomatoes, roast peppers with olive oil, mint and garlic, a bit of greek tzatziki and as the English would say "Bob is very much your father's brother" ;-)