Guide to Catania

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Catania has always been defined by two unavoidable facts of geography and nature, Etna (the volcano) and the sea. Anywhere you are in the city Etna is always there to remind you that nothing can be taken for granted, while the sea is there to provide an escape to a different world.

The history of the city, like any other place in the Mediterranean, is made up by the sequence of cultures passing through, conquering and being conquered by the locals, all leaving their mark in every aspect of life. It was founded by the Greek Chalsidian people in 729 b.c.. After some fierce battles the Siracusans conquered the city and ruled it for many centuries. Eventually and inevitably for the times, Catania ended in the hands of first the Romans and subequently the Byzantines. Next, it was the turn of the Arabs , who arrived in 827 A.D., and 200 years later the Normans paid a visit. In 1169 the city suffered from a terrible earthquake, and while reconstructing it the locals had to also deal with the aspirations of first Henry the VI and subsequently the Spanish. During the Spanish rule, under Frederic III of Aragon, Catania underwent a cultural revival, symbolised by the founding of the University of Catania in 1434, then called the 'Siculorum Gymnasium'. In 1669 a violent eruption of Etna reminded people of the fickleness of life, and the locals were once more faced with the task of reconstruction. This reconstruction led to the current Baroque aspect of the city, with black lava and light-colored limestone a distinguished feature throughout. Eventually Catania became part of the Kingdom of Italy as the rest of Sicily and is now a vibrant centre of culture and economic development for the area.

The architecture of Catania is marked by the contrast between the black lava and the light limestone, the permeates the centre of the city. While the city has examples of both Roman period architecture, with their amphitheatres, thermae, etc, an the Byzantanine period with Christian churches such as La Rotunda and the Cappella Bonaiuto (outstanding examples of Paleochristian art), the current character of the city was shaped after the earthquake of 1693. The reconstruction that followed gave the city its baroque nature, recognisable in the street layout and succession of beautiful churches and palaces. As a result of its splendid examples of Baroque architecture Catania was recently included by UNESCO among the eight Sicilian towns to be considered as eligible for the World Heritage List.

The spectacular Piazza Duomo, with the famous elephant affectionately known to the locals as 'u liotru' at its centre (the symbol of the city), the Cathedral, the Palace of the Elephants and the Amenano fountain are all sites not to be missed. Other sights include: the Ursino Castle, commissioned by Frederick II of Swabia around 1250; the Benedictine Monastery, which ranks second in Europe for size and beauty, along with the church of San Nicolà d'Arena; the university building; the Bellini theatre; the splendid Baroque churches in the historic centre; the Roman theatre, the Odeon and the amphitheatre; the Rotonda thermal baths; the lush park of the Villa Bellini; the Bellini Museum; the house of Verga and the Achelliane thermal baths.

The festival of Sant'Agata, consistently attended for the past five centuries, is undoubtedly the most important religious event in Catania. The festival takes place every February, between the 3rd and the 5th, and is a heady mix of religious fervor, folklore, and a good excuse to see and to be seen out and about in Catania. The focal point of the festival is a procession with the bust of Sant'Agata richly decorated and carried by devotees of Sant'Agata - the most exciting point for them is going up the Via San Giuliano - there the road is steep so the devotees must run all the way in order to manage the pull the heavy statue. The candle carriers, traditionally representatives of the guilds of craftsmen, grocers, fishers, butchers, bakers (and - yes even candlestick makers!) add to the atmosphere of the procession with their huge candles. In fact, the candle leave so much wax in the streets that it is a task in itself to clean them the following day so as to prevent road accidents!.

When it comes to food Catania is probably one of the luckiest places on earth. It is a port city with a huge fish market and the centre of the most agriculturally rich area of Sicily. This means that the basics of fish, meat, olive oil, vegetable, herbs and fruit are always fresh and plentiful! The Catania fish market - as old as the city itself - is famous in the entire Med for the variety and freshness. It spreads out around Piazza Pardo (near the Cathedral). In addition to the fresh fish stalls, there is also dried fruit, bottles of extra virgin olive oil and red wine made on the foothills of Mount Etna, bags of dried pulses for tasty, local recipe soups and lots more too. A typical dish is the pasta a la Norma, which is claimed to have been created in homage to the Bellini opera, Norma. As with the best in Italian cooking the key is in the simplicity of the ingredients - spaghetti, aubergines (cut lengthwise), salty ricotta, tomatoes and basil...

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